When heading home from Yemen two weeks ago I asked the Turkish Airways flight attendant how to say, "thank you" in Turkish, as she was serving me my beverage. She rambled something quite complicated sounding, I grimaced, half smiling and said, "thank you."On my way back to Yemen, I stopped in Turkey for a short visit, and I'm proud to say that after spending two full days in Istanbul I can now say, "thank you" in Turkish, or at least get close enough to evoke appreciation for the effort from the local population (sounds something like "tea sugar ederim"). In a word, "go." Go to Istanbul. Surrounded by water on the majority of its sides (it has many, see map (Istanbul and its suburbs includes all thee tips. Commuting by ferry is very common)), rich in history, and home to a truly unique modern culture, it should not be missed (hmmm, I should write for the tourism board).
The city, known during the height of the Roman Empire as Constantinople, served as the center (not geographical) of power, advancement in the sciences and culture, and the struggle for the dominance and survival of both the Roman and the Ottoman Empires. Following the defeat of Christendom in the city in the 15th century, Istanbul rivaled the most holy sites of Islam in their effect on the spread of the religion. The remaining buildings, ruins, names, and language all bear witness to this history and the continued struggle between East and West to shape the future of Istanbul and of greater Turkey.
The picture above, taken from the rooftop of my hostel (Best Island Hostel) (note: Istanbul is not chea. Expect to pay at least $14USD for a hostel bed) shows the Aya Sophia (or Hagia Sophia). Built in the 6th century as a christian basilica, it was later converted into a mosque (1453 AD), and now serves as a museum (one of the many secularizing changes initiated by Kamal Ataturk, the founder of the modern Turkish republic, in the late 1930's). Situated to the south, across the area once serving as a roman circus, is the Blue Mosque (left, in the background). Also of note was the Topkapi Palace which served as the home, and for some time, the center of administration for the Ottoman Sultans. It houses, now as a museum, the most impressive collection of jeweled artifacts (swords, clothing, thrones, baby cradles) I've ever seen (I suppose I haven't seen many such collections, but I have a feeling that this one is up there nonetheless). Also of interest was the exhibit on the Sutlans' wardrobes as they changed over 400 some-odd years.Culturally, modern Istanbul is an oddity or perhaps a novelty for me. Most of my time living in the Muslim world has been in a relatively conservative city in Palestine, and in very conservative Yemen. In these societies Islam defines daily routines, social interactions and relationships. So to experience a snip-it of life in a country claiming to be 98% Muslim, but yet seemingly so secular was at once refreshing and bewildering.
How could a Muslim society accept men and women freely dressing how they saw fit? How could a Muslim society permit unhindered access to alcohol? These are just a couple of the more superficial observations one can make. They fail to delve into the more fundamental differences that are embodied in the way people view social relationships and norms. The concept I have been slowly defining of what exactly is a Muslim society has been challenged. Many Muslims would argue that Turkey's is not a Muslim society, and I suppose many Turks would argue the same. In the end, perhaps that is just the point, it's not a Muslim society, but a secular one, just as the U.S. and Western Europe are not Christian societies, but secular ones formed in some ways by the Christian tradition (this is not to say that no other religious traditions have left their mark at differing periods of history). Modern Turkey continues to define its identity, and it is fascinating to experience and watch. Check the news on Turkey, and every day you will see the struggle between secularists and those calling for a society more closely governed by religious tradition.
So... two days of rich history, natural beauty, and a fascinating, vibrant, evolving modern culture.... Tea Sugar Ederim, Istanbul!
